Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Puerto Lopez


Well, we´re just past the halfway point in the trip, and it´s been nothing short of interesting thus far. We just returned from a weekend trip to Puerto Lopez which proved both educational and entertaining.

The first bus from Canoa to San Vicente was crowded, a common occurence here. As usual this did not prevent the ayudante from hailing down more passengers, creating a wonderful mass of sweaty bodies scrunched together in a sardine esque manner in every bit of space avaialable, occasionally venturing onto the top of the bus. Somewhere in this mass of people a very old, very small woman pulled me onto her lap. I tried to protest, assuring her that I was just fine standing in the aisle (just like the other 20 people, a fact that seemed to escape her attention, or else just didn´t bother her), but she was very insistent and continued to pull me onto her lap. Evaluating the situation, I determined that it was better to consent and not offend the woman, even if it was at the risk of breaking her 80 year old, frail looking legs. The woman was very sweet, calling me a doll, and proceeded to wrap her arms around my waist, pat my thigh, etc. Since she was old and female I decided that this was probably ok and hoped it was customary or something. I soon surmised that this was not in fact an every day occurence as I took in the stares from everyone else on the bus. I was sure they were all gawking at this obnoxious American tourist who was crushing a poor old woman´s legs because she couldn't handle standing in the aisle like everyone else. Needless to say it was a mildly uncomfortable situation.

After several more uncomfortable, though comparatively less eventful bus rides we arrived in Puerto Lopez to a very cool little eco lodge called Mandala. Our room was a little private cabaƱa with two beds complete with mosquito nets and a bathroom boasting some very attractive woodwork. All in all a great place with pretty good food and phenomenal tropical gardens. The owners were on vacation at the time, they had left their friend Walter to run the place. Walter was an older German man with wire rimmed spectacles on the end of his nose and white, somewhat unkempt hair on the sides of his head. Walter became frustrated rather easily and became visibly stressed when Lucy tried to order a drink while he was still checking us in. We soon learned not to burden Walter with more than one simple task at risk of making his head explode. One morning we wanted a taxi but none were available, so a worker at the hotel called one that would be there in ten minutes. A couple of minutes later four taxis arrived and Albert became so flustered that he could hardly get his words out, which quickly became very amusing as he was sputtering in his less than perfect Spanish to the taxi drivers. A very nice man, but not cut out for air traffic control.

On our second night in Puerto Lopez we heard that there was a traveling circus in town, so me, mom, and our friend Gerard from the school in Canoa decided to go. I for one just wanted to see how on earth they got a lion (their biggest draw on the advertisement) to this little town in Ecuador and what state the animal was in. This proved to be one of the more bizarre spectacles I have ever had the privilege of witnessing. The circus was supposed to start at nine, so, obviously, when we got there at five to, the place was deserted. After finally getting in, at the steep price of a buck a pop, we paid fifty cents more to sit in the plastic lawn chairs set up in front of the bleachers and then proceeded to sit around for forty minutes waiting. At one point a dog ran in and peed on a pole in the center, which I mistakenly took for the first act. The show started promptly at ten thirty. I immediately realized that this was not going to be like any circus I had ever seen.

It opened with four women, scantily clad in thong bikinis with beads hanging down (probably for modesty´s sake) and high heels dancing. Now, I use the term dancing lightly, it mostly consisted of some impressive booty shaking and the occasional turn (so as to see this from all angles of course). They did at one point attempt a sort of can can type move which didn't work out very well due to an apparent lack of coordination. Jim (a man we met on our tour of Isla de la Plata that day) who I was sitting next to suggested that perhaps if this whole college thing didn't work out I could have a career in the circus. We´ll see how this semester pans out. After that spectacle, there were a couple of acrobat type performers (with three guys in the background controlling the pulley system with their body weight and a disturbing lack of a safety net), and a contortionist the likes of which I have never before seen. Next came a five minute intermission that only lasted for twenty minutes and more dancers. There were some clowns thrown in the mix at certain points, I don´t pretend to have understood all of their jokes but their actions made it clear that there was some PG 13 humor being tossed around. There were also some mechanical dolls doing dirty dance moves, which turned out to be a guy squatting underneath some mannequins and moving their legs. And finally, as a finale, some little monkeys dressed as Rambo complete with mini machine guns came out. There never was a lion, but as this didn't seem to bother anyone else I assume this was expected.

A very interesting trip. We head to the jungle on Friday so no Internet for ten days or so, so I guess this is Ciao!

Saturday, May 3, 2008

Bienvenidos a Ecuador

SO, after twelve hours on a plane and some painfully long bus rides I am now in Ecuador! We flew into Quito (the capital) at 7 or 8...(ok note: I never have any idea what time it is here as I don´t have a watch and usually just depend on the cell phone). I learned some little fun facts about Quito from our unusually friendly pilot: apparently it´s the second highest airport in the world and they actually have to lower the pressure inside the plane before landing to match that of the altitude outside--I guess they haven´t been flying there very long because of the problems presented by the altitude and such. So now that everyone reading this has officially fallen asleep, please, let me continue.

The first night in Quito we seemed to be staying in the heart of the tourist district and I was ecstatic to be greeted by a hot shower at my hotel. The area, known as New Town, is affectionately (ok, maybe not so affectionately) termed Gringolandia by the natives--not exactly my style. On the first day we went to Mitad del Mundo (the middle of the world), and straddled the equator, which my mom thought was stupid and I thought was freaking awesome. Then on Wednesday (I think, I also generally have no idea what day it is) we headed on a ten hour bus ride down down down to the coast. I took some magic little pills (Dramamine for the motion sickness) and was out for the majority of the ride, except for a couple of times when I woke up to the sound of vendors walking through the aisles of the bus and some beggars with elaborate stories at which point I feigned sleep anyway to avoid confrontation. And one time when I was out sprawled onto two seats and a lady came and sat on me instead of tapping me to wake me up first.

We have been at the beach, at Sundown Inn, a hotel-type place owned by a family where we have spanish classes 4 hours a day for a couple of days now. It´s about a fifteen minute walk up the beach to Canoa, a little coastal town known for being a surfer´s haven. This place is pretty much all I could ask for: a stuning beach, plenty of hammocks, and hours and hours of down time to read and sunbathe. Aside from my classes that´s pretty much all I do here, relax and read. It´s phenomenal. It´s extremely humid but really not too hot, at least not unbearably so. Hot enough that you want to jump in the ocean but with the breeze definitely not too uncomfortable. We will be here for two weeks, which should be great, aside from the less than desirable food (including a wide variety of mystery meats--which we can only hope doesn´t include Cuy, or Guinea Pig, an Ecuador specialty) and the really uncomfortable matress.

For those of you who were wondering, I´m keeping the sunburn under control, no face boils yet so it looks like we´re in the clear. I learned my lesson, so you don´t have to be afraid to look at my pictures later :). ¡Ciao!